If you are repainting the exterior or putting on a new roof, solar is probably not on the list. It should be. The outside of the house is already torn up. Ladders are up, and crews are on site. That is the cheapest moment you will ever get to plan solar.
I built a free tool that measures roofs for solar and prices the system from an address. Here is how to fold it into an exterior project you are already paying for.
Should I get solar before or after a new roof?
After. New roof first, then solar right after. Never the other way around.
Taking panels off later to re-roof costs real money. If your roof is not in the plan but it is within five years of needing replacement, do it now while you are already spending on the outside of the house.
Composition shingle is the easiest and cheapest roof to put solar on. Metal standing seam is the best, because the mounts clamp to the seams with no holes. Tile costs more because the crew lifts tiles to set the mounts.
Ask the roofer about vents
Here is one most people miss. A plumbing vent in the middle of the south roof face can knock out a whole row of panels.
Roofers can move vents during a re-roof for a lot less than it costs as a separate job later. But they only do it if somebody asks. You cannot ask if you do not know where the panels go. So get the layout first.
Paint and solar on the same schedule
Solar puts hardware on the outside wall. There is conduit running from the roof to the electrical equipment, and it has to go somewhere on your siding.
If you know where it will run before the painters finish, you can plan for it. The conduit can be painted to match after it goes on. Fascia and eaves near the array can get their coat while the crew is still there. Nobody wants to call the painter back for one wall.
The electrical panel is the hidden line
Most homes need some electrical work to go solar. If an electrician is already on the job for new exterior lights or outlets, that is the cheapest time to look at the panel too.
Ask your installer to show you the electrical line on the bid. It is often the surprise.
What to know before you call an installer
You do not need a salesperson on your porch to get a number. The tool I built reads your roof from satellite imagery. It lays out the panels on the faces that get sun. It shows system size, estimated production, and a cost breakdown. It also shows state rebates and incentives, payback, and 25-year savings.
It is free. There is no phone number to enter, and nobody calls you. Installers pay to be on the site. Homeowners never do. If you want real bids, you ask, and no more than two licensed installers get the request.
The estimate is not the quote. The installer still comes out, inspects the roof, and confirms it. But you walk in knowing the panel count and the price, and you can tell your roofer and painter what is coming.
Think of it like buying a car. You look up the price before you walk into the dealership. Solar is a bigger purchase, and almost nobody does that. You can do it tonight at solarroofprint.com.
Three things to check while the ladders are up
A crew that is already on your roof can tell you most of what an installer will ask about. Have them look at three things.
Direction. South is best in the US. West is second, and in some utility areas west is worth more because it makes power late in the afternoon when rates are highest. East is third. Panels on a north face still work, but they lose 20 to 30 percent, and most installers will not put them there unless there is no other roof.
Shade. This is the one people underestimate. One tall tree on the south side can take a quarter of your production. Panels are wired in strings, so a shadow on one panel at 3 PM can drag down the whole row. Look at the roof at 10 AM, noon, and 3 PM. If a hard shadow sits across the main face at any of those times, count that face as half. That does not mean cut the tree. Sometimes the right answer is a smaller system on a clear west face.
Pitch. It matters less than people think. Almost any pitch between 3/12 and 9/12 is fine. Anything over about 8/12 is a steep roof to an installer, so the crew needs more fall protection, and the install line goes up a little. Very low roofs under 3/12 may need tilt racks, which adds cost.
Quick answers
Why is the Solar Roofprint calculator better than other solar quote sites?
It is easy to get a number. Most solar sites I have tried make you hand over a phone number and an email address before they show you anything, and then the calls start. Solar Roofprint shows the panel layout, the system size, and the price from your address alone.
Do I have to give my phone number or email to get a solar quote?
Not on Solar Roofprint. You type in an address and get the estimate. You only share contact details if you decide you want bids, and then no more than two licensed installers get the request.
Should I replace my roof before I get solar?
If the roof is within five years of needing replacement, yes. Replace it first and put the solar on right after. Pulling panels off later to re-roof costs real money.
What kind of roof is best for solar panels?
Metal standing seam is the best because the mounts clamp to the seams with no holes. Composition shingle is the easiest and cheapest. Tile costs more because the crew lifts tiles to set the mounts.
Can I get a solar price without talking to a salesperson?
Yes. Solar Roofprint reads your roof from satellite imagery and shows the panel layout, system size, and a cost breakdown from your address. It is free; there is no phone number to enter, and nobody calls you.
Do it before the crew packs up
A typical American home uses around 875 kWh a month. Covering that usually takes 15 to 25 panels. Whether that many fit on your roof is the question, and it is the question you want answered while the ladders are still up.
Before you sign off on the exterior job, put your address into Solar Roofprint and look at the layout. If the panel count and the price fit, tell your roofer, your painter, and your electrician while they are still on site.
