Painting Over Stained Wood? Here’s What the Pros Recommend

Hi, I’m Paul from Trusted House Painter. After 20 years of painting, one question I hear all the time is: “Can you paint over stain?” The short answer: yes. But the approach depends on the type of stain and whether the work is exterior or interior. Below I’ll walk you through the different stain types, the right prep, priming choices, painting tips, and a few real-world examples from jobs I’ve done — including the cabinets in my RV.

Quick overview: Types of stains

Before you start, identify the stain on the surface. There are three main types:

• Transparent (clear) stains: Mostly used to enhance the wood’s natural color and grain. They usually require a protective topcoat (polyurethane or similar).
• Semi-transparent stains: Have more pigment than clear stains and slightly obscure the grain while still keeping a wood look.
• Solid stains: Act more like a paint — full pigment that gets absorbed into the wood. They often resemble paint visually but are still stains.

Is it exterior or interior? That matters

The basic prep steps are similar, but the level of detail differs:

• Exterior surfaces (decks, fences, cedar siding): focus on cleaning, removing mildew, sanding loose/flaking material, priming, then painting.
• Interior surfaces (furniture, cabinets): be more delicate — remove glossy finish, degrease, sand lightly, prime, and apply your finish coats carefully.

Exterior: step-by-step

1. Thoroughly clean the surface — remove mildew, dirt, and grime.
2. Sand any loose or flaking areas and feather edges smooth.
3. Identify whether the existing stain is acrylic or oil-based.
4. Apply a primer — you can use an acrylic primer or an oil-based primer. Oil-based primers are generally more resilient and “bulletproof.”
5. Topcoat with two coats of your exterior paint (acrylic latex is common).
6. Application options: sprayer, roller, or brush — use what works best for your surface and access.

Alternative approach: if you want to skip the primer/paint conversion, consider using a solid stain over the existing semi-transparent or clear stain. A good solid stain can act like a paint-and-primer-in-one and save time — just know the finish may differ slightly from paint.

Interior (cabinets, furniture): step-by-step

1. Clean everything thoroughly — use a degreaser to remove oils and grime.
2. Lightly sand the surface with 120–150 grit sandpaper to remove the glossy sheen. You don’t need to sand to raw wood — just dull the finish so primer can bond.
3. Prime the surface. For previously sealed or varnished surfaces, an oil-based or specialty bonding primer is often the safest bet.
4. Apply two or more coats of your chosen paint. High-build enamels or cabinet paints give a durable finish. Spray, roll with a thin-nap/mohair roller, or brush depending on the look you want.
5. Optional: topcoat with a clear polyurethane for added durability and a furniture-look sheen — but be aware this changes how future touch-ups behave.

My RV cabinet project — a real example

My wife wanted the RV cabinets updated. Everything in there was previously finished with a sheen and a topcoat, so the process was detailed:

• Removed all doors and hardware for easier access and to replace the hardware.
• Degreased and wiped clean every piece.
• Sanded both sides of the doors to remove sheen.
• Primed both sides of each door.
• Applied three to four coats of white paint (white needs more coverage).
• We used an enamel paint (Emerald Enamel) and skipped an added polyurethane topcoat. The enamel is durable and easy to spot-touch if scuffed.

Important tips and common pitfalls

• Always identify whether the existing stain/finish is oil or acrylic before choosing primer and topcoats.
• When working interior, get rid of the glossy sheen — this is the main reason new paint won’t adhere long-term.
• Use 120–150 grit sandpaper for light sanding. Too aggressive sanding can damage delicate profiles or veneers.
• Oil-based primers generally provide better adhesion over difficult surfaces, but follow product labeling and local VOC rules.
• If you apply a polyurethane topcoat, know that future touch-ups are harder — you’re now matching to a clear film, not paint alone.
• Consider solid stain for exterior surfaces if you want a quicker route that still offers a painted look.
• Every project is unique — talk to your local paint store or a painting professional for product-specific advice.

“Yes — you can paint over stain. But prep and product choice make all the difference.”

Final thoughts

Painting over stained wood is completely doable. The secret is proper identification, cleaning, light sanding to remove sheen or loose material, and using the right primer and topcoat combination for the job. Exterior work can often be simplified with a good solid stain, while interior cabinetry requires more delicate prep and, in many cases, a high-quality enamel or an optional polyurethane topcoat.

If you want project-specific advice, speak with your local painting professionals or the paint sales reps at your paint store — every surface and situation has its quirks.

Thanks for reading — Paul, Trusted House Painter.